The intensification of criticisms towards ultra-processed foods, without a nuanced consideration of their nutrition, could unfairly tar some plant-based meats and milks that "compare well with their animal-based counterparts," which may be viewed more favorably because they are classified as unprocessed or minimally processed, according to research presented at the Food & Nutrition Conference & Expo, as reported by DairyReporter.

Many unjust demonizations

"Demonizing ultra-processed foods due to processing, rather than their unhealthy formulation, could undermine public acceptance of processing as essential for developing nutritious foods that are accessible, sustainable, safe against foodborne diseases, and safe for storage and transportation," argued Mark Messina, director of nutrition science and research for the Global Soy Nutrition Institute, at FNCE.

For example, he explained, many plant-based meats created in recent years to more accurately replicate the eating experience of animal proteins are considered ultra-processed according to the NOVA classification system, which divides foods into four categories based on the processing they undergo.

Under NOVA, the first group includes unprocessed or minimally processed foods, such as whole fruits and vegetables, meat, and milk, the second is processed culinary ingredients, such as butter and vinegar, commonly consumed with group one foods.

The third group is processed and includes a combination of ingredients from groups one and two, mainly for preservation, and the fourth is ultra-processed. This last group, which includes most plant-based meats and milks, is made with non-household ingredients, chemicals, colorants, sweeteners, industrial ingredients, and are typically high in fats, sugar, and salt, according to the NOVA system.

Products in this group are often associated with numerous health issues, including diabetes, obesity, increased cancer risk, and more, based on rapidly emerging research, prompting the US government to charge the Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee to examine how processing affects growth, body composition, and obesity risk, and to host a two-day workshop examining ultra-processed foods.

Ultra-processed foods do not have identical health impacts

While Messina does not dispute that many plant-based meats and milks are highly processed, he says the "very broad brush" with which the NOVA system paints products makes it difficult to understand their nutritional value and health impact – both detrimental and beneficial.

"It is inconceivable that all foods classified as ultra-processed would have a similar effect on our health," he said.

For instance, he highlighted a study on 200,000 individuals who were followed for 24 to 40 years, of which approximately 20,000 developed diabetes. Researchers found that some ultra-processed foods were associated with a higher risk of developing type two diabetes, and some were associated with a lower risk.

This division was further supported by research Messina helped conduct that compared the nutritional profiles of five soy protein-based burgers to those made with 80% lean beef and the nutritional profiles of two soy milks to whole and 2% cow's milk.

Energy density

The study found that the energy density of soy burgers is similar or lower than that of beef burgers and that soy-based burgers contained similar or higher amounts of protein, higher amounts of dietary fiber, and lower amounts of fat than beef.

Additionally, the study found that soy milk had a lower energy density than whole and 2% cow's milk and similar protein levels. Soy milk also contained approximately 2 grams of fiber per serving, while cow's milk had none.

"Soy products, despite being classified as ultra-processed, fared more favorably than animal-based products," he said.

But, he added, this difference is lost on most people given how processing is currently portrayed and how it eclipses nutritional facts.

As such, he argues that more research into the mechanics of how processed foods influence eating patterns and health is "urgently" needed, as well as a more nuanced discussion about the nutritional profiles of individual products and their potential health impact. (Photo: Freepik)